Purrfect Catscape

Spring is full swing and summer is within sight. There is nothing better than making the most of the  season by gardening with your cat. What a purrfect time to plan and plant a fun and safe garden for your feline friends!

The style of garden you decide to design will drive the type of reaction you get from your cat. Planting a classic garden with rows of cat-safe plants in a small area may have your friend walking through them and perhaps catching naps. If you incorporate potted plants, shelves, scratch posts,  chairs and fences your cat may be encouraged to roam and play. Cats are natural prowlers, so they will love a garden where they can stalk, jump and act out their natural instincts.

A good mix of big plants, pots and wooden structures gives cats exactly what they want -- shade on the hot days and sun on the cooler days. The more interesting you make your garden, the more fun they will have. Designing areas that your cat will enjoy also enhances the overall beauty and dynamic of your garden. 

Create a fun adventure playground for your cat. Cats love to climb and will use almost anything for a scratching post. To protect your trees, try installing vertical logs or 2x4's of varying heights for your cat to climb on and scratch (wrap these with sisel rope for bonus points). Try adding a fence,  cat tree or shelf somewhere in your garden because elevation is exactly what our feline companions want. Cats love to climb and watch over their world, so think about including such vantage points for them to enjoy.
Cat toys aren't only for in the house! Attach toys to pieces of yarn or twine and hang them, at varying heights, around the garden. When breezes blow their movement will entice your cat to chase them and play.

 Make sure that your cat always has access to a fresh clean water source. A solar powered fountain can provide this while adding a charming touch to your garden.



When it comes to populating your garden, cat-safe plants include heather, sunflower, bamboo, rose, violet, lavender and snapdragon. Herbs that are safe (and beneficial) for your cat include parsley, sage, mint, dill, rosemary, cilantro, tarragon and basil. We all know that cats go crazy for catnip. This plant is a member of the mint family and contains an essential oil that has a euphoric effect on cats.

Though this list is not complete, some plants to avoid using in your garden or home include; lilies, peony, foxglove, buttercup, mistletoe, holly, rhododendron and wisteria. Also, do not use cocoa bean mulches as they are highly poisonous to both cats and dogs.

AVOID CHEMICALS! I cannot stress this enough! Pesticides, slug bait, rodent bait, weed killers, lawn fertilizers -- these products are TOXIC TO ANIMALS and harmful for the environment. Take the time to research and USE ORGANIC ALTERNATIVES!

Cats are territorial and the presence of other cats in the garden can be a source of conflict. They may even deter your cat from enjoying his own garden. If your garden or yard is fenced, installing a plastic mesh at the top will deter other cat's from entering and yours from leaving.

By utilizing your imagination and taking a few health considerations into account, you and your feline buddy will enjoy many hours of garden happiness together.

A Natural First Aid Kit for Your Pets

We strongly suggest having a first aid kit, stocked and handy, for your pets. For those that want to take a natural approach, there are herbal and homeopathic remedies to consider adding to your kit that can help with concerns such as cuts, burns, insect bites, nausea and stress.

Homeopathy embraces the notion that the body can heal itself and the symptoms are a sign that the body is in a state of repair attempting to restore its own health. Homeopathic remedies can even be administered along with traditional treatments for better results.

Here are some basic homeopathic and herbal remedies every natural first-aid it should contain. Always consult your veterinarian before administering any new remedy to your pets.

ARNICA is a useful addition because it not only relieves pain, it also reduces associated swelling in cases of bruises and muscle strains.

When using arnica pellets, use 30c and give two every four hours for two days, then two pellets three times a day.

CALENDULA OFFICINALIS is considered to be a versatile herbal remedy. It can be applied as a tea or ointment on wounds, cuts, abrasions, rashes and insect bites. It speeds the healing process, decreases pain and inflammation and due to its antimicrobial properties, decreases infection.

To treat a wound, mix 6 drops of calendula tincture in two tablespoons of water. Apply to the wound and cover it with a gauze wrap. This will help reduce pain while you seek assistance from your vet.

Calendula 6x can be given orally. One tablet (pellet) fed twice daily can help control overgrowth of yeast in the bowel and help the healing process after a bout of colitis.

NETTLE LEAF OIL is one of the simplest remedies for insect bites and stings. Rub one drop directly onto the bite or sting area to bring quick relief. If swelling is present, you can apply an ice pack (use a towel between your pet's body and the ice) and remember to remove it every 3 - 5 minutes before replacing it again. This will help prevent tissue damage from direct cold temperatures.

ALOE VERA cannot be beat when it comes to treating burns and wounds. It is soothing and cooling and improves circulation in the affected area. Aloe contains antibacterial and anti-fungal properties which support efficient healing.

Purchase an organic gel with no preservatives, sweeteners or flavorings that is suitable for human consumption. Ingesting large amounts of aloe can cause tummy upsets so after topical application, monitor your pets so they do not lick the area too much.

CHAMOMILE or PEPPERMINT TEA can be given to cats or dogs that have been nauseous or experienced diarrhea. I have noticed improvement when giving one teaspoon at a time, every 20 - 30 minutes. Make sure the tea is room temperature or cool and does not include caffeine, sugar, honey or artificial sweetener.

SLIPPERY ELM powder is an effective remedy for diarrhea (and one that helps alleviate symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome and constipation) that can be purchased at many co-ops and health stores. Mix one teaspoon of the powder with one cup warm water, then give your pet one teaspoon per 20 lbs of body weight, three times a day.

Bach's RESCUE REMEDY is great to use at the time of trauma, vet visits, in new environments and during thunderstorms. A few drops in your pet's mouth or water bowl (or on food) will help them handle and process stressful situations.

Take time and make a few preparations now to reduce the stress of urgent situations should they arise and keep your pet as comfortable as possible while seeking veterinarian aid.

All of the herbal and homeopathic advice shared in our blog is based upon our personal use and experience. 

It is not intended to replace veterinarian consultation, care or guidance.

Cold Weather Goat Care

Although they are hardy farm animals, goats do require a higher level of shelter from snow and cold. Many goat owners bring them into a barn and provide a thick layer of bedding for them and safe access to the outdoors where they are able to warm in the sun and absorb important Vitamin D.

A three-sided shelter with the open side away from the wind direction will help keep them warm. Goats can easily become chilled if the weather is rainy or snowy and they do not have adequate roughage. Some people think that increasing a goat's grain intake during the winter will help keep them warm. What most effectively helps goats create their own heat, is roughage. Keeping hay in front of them will help goats maintain their body heat. 

It is important that you are pro-active with regular parasite control for your goats. Research is showing that many types of worm larvae lay dormant until the animal stressed. An animal that is not fed properly, is too cold and does not have access to fresh water, will become stressed. When this happens worm larvae will hatch and migrate throughout your goats' body with devastating effects.

Support your goats through the winter by taking pro-active steps. Here are a few things to remember:

• Shelters are in good repair - covered with no area for leakage, strong enough to withstand winds and snow, give enough protection to keep the goats out of the cold, damp weather.
• Enough shelters for all animals.  Remember goats do not always share well. You might need to add some wooden pallets to "divide" the shelter areas so more goats can use the shelter.
• If feed areas are not in shelter areas, some sort of cover should be available that will keep the goats and food dry.

• Have enough paddocks/areas if you need to switch goats around - as an example, one or two goats are not being allowed in shelters or not allowed to eat their share - these goats would need to be in an area of their own.
• Goats are up to date on worming and hoof trimming.
• Remember goats need extra nutrition during the cold winter time - feeding grain or some alfalfa in the night time allows their rumens to work through the night helping to keep them warm.
• Have goat coats or people sweatshirts cut to fit ready for goats if you see some shivering.

• Fences in good repair.
• Quarantine pen available should you need it.
• Have your hay in storage, covered well. If you find a "steaming" hay bale remove immediately from other hay to keep from starting a fire.
• Have grain stored in covered containers - winter time causes unwanted little creatures to search for easy sources of grain.
• Have extra water available should lines freeze or other reason for not being able to have fresh water.
• Be prepared to provide hot water to the goats on days where their water is very cold or has ice in it or is ice!
• Start immune enhancer/vitamins to help goats stay healthy through the winter. These can be human holistic/herbal type or regular immune enhancer vitamins. 
• Keep minerals (should include selenium) available for the goats at all times in a dry area.
• Start on probiotic powder when feeding grain to keep their rumens at a good functioning level of good bacteria.
• Make sure your first aid kit is well stocked - you may find a storm is brewing and you cannot get out to the feed/farm store.
• Check lumbar score of each goat often – lumbar score shows what condition the goat is in.
• Check coat thickness to be sure they are ready for winter - if selenium deficient, coat may not be able to grow thick for winter cold.
• Keep an eye on hay and grain to be sure there is no growing mold brought by winter moist weather.
• Try and keep other wild critters from getting into your goat's water buckets - they may be carrying leptospirosis.
• Have older goats?  They are going to need special attention.
• If you have pregnant does who may have due dates during winter weather - be prepared with kidding stalls and kidding supplies.  These does may also need some special care so watching them closely is advised.  If you do have kid goats born in the cold weather, advice is "keep them warm" and the doe's body warmth is sometimes not enough.  If the kid goat seems chilled or your barn is cold and the heat lamp is just not keeping the area warm enough I advise bringing the kid goats inside – don’t lose them from the cold.

Rrraw Feeding for Your Cat

Making your own cat food is easy. Once you do it a few times, it gets even easier. Most people end up feeding a combination of homemade, commercially made raw diets and whole meats. This is actually preferred, variety is important, both in the types of meat and the different recipes. This variety helps to even out the nutrients provided. 

Typically, a healthy adult cat should eat 2 - 4% of its body weight per day (double that for kittens up to a year old) and be fed twice daily. As an example, a ten pound cat, eating 3% of its weight would intake 4.8 ounces a day. Kittens should eat about every four hours, and senior cats often do better eating three or four smaller meals per day. 

If your cat is not at an ideal weight or has existing medical conditions, consult a qualified animal nutritionist, a holistic veterinarian, or your current vet prior to beginning a new diet.

When embarking upon a homemade food for your cat, the basic ratio guideline to follow is:

83%  meat

  7%  bone

  5%  liver 

  5%  other organs 

Important supplements to have on hand include:

Taurine powder

Vitamin E capsules

Vitamin B Complex (powder or capsules containing powder)

Wild Salmon Oil (do not use cod liver oil as it contains high levels of Vitamin A which can be toxic for your kitty)

Lite Salt that is iodized (or use regular iodized table salt but use 1/2 the amount any recipe calls for)

Psyllium Husk Powder (Temporary use is beneficial in the prevention constipation as your pet adjusts to its new diet.)

Both recipes call for eggshell powder. You can make this yourself by leaving the shell's nutrient rich membrane, removing the egg white from the shells and drying them in a 300 F oven for 10 minutes. Allow them to cool then grind to a fine powder using an old coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

Raw Chicken Dinner

4.5 lb   boneless chicken thighs and breasts (If they have skin, remove it from half of the meat.)

   7 oz   chicken liver

  14 oz  chicken heart (If you are unable to locate chicken hearts, add 4,000 mg taurine to the amount listed below, plus 3 ounces of thigh meat.)

   8 oz   spring or filtered water (do not use unfiltered tap water)

   4       egg yolks

   2 tsp egg shell powder (Grinding the shell of one large egg yields approximately 1 tsp of powder.)

2,000 mg taurine

4,000 mg fish oil

   200 iu  Vitamin E

   200 mg Vitamin B complex  

   4 tsp psyllium husk powder (optional)

Mix together well, serve a meal fresh and freeze the rest

Raw Rabbit Dinner

3 cups    rabbit meat (ground or chunks)

1/3 cup  chicken liver

1/2 cup  chicken heart

   1         raw chicken or turkey neck, chopped (DO NOT COOK)

1/2 cup  cooked carrots, diced small

   1         egg

   1 tsp   fish oil

   4 tsp eggshell powder

3,000 mg  taurine powder

Mix well, serve appropriate portion and freeze the rest 

Raw Food Recipes for Dogs

I have received several requests from dog owners, for raw food recipes that I have used. The two recipes that I have chosen to share are among my dogs' favorites and were originally sourced from, Dogs Naturally Magazine.

Rule of Thumb - When feeding a homemade raw diet healthy, moderately active adult dogs should be fed 1 - 3% of their body weight. Therefore, a 50 pound dog would be fed 1 - 1.5 lbs per day.

Please note - puppies require larger amounts! Owners need to look at what the ideal adult weight is expected to be and feed for that future weight. For example, a 15 lb puppy that is expected to weigh 50 lb at maturity, should be fed 1.5 lbs per day.

* Preparation note: puree vegetables for more efficient digestibility

Chicken & Beef Delight

20 - 25%  Boneless Chicken Thighs and/or Breasts
20 - 25%  Beef (stew meat or ground)
10 - 30%  Beef Hearts and Liver
  5 - 10%  Green Beans
  5 - 10%  Broccoli
        15% Ground eggshell or bonemeal

mix well, serve fresh or freeze portions for later use


Beef with Greens

20 - 25%  Beef (stew meat or ground)
10 - 30%  Organ meat (hearts and liver)
  5 - 20%  Kale
  5 - 10%  Collard greens
  5 - 10%  Apples
  3 - 5%    Ground eggshell or bonemeal

mix well, serve fresh or freeze portions for later use

Always confer with a canine nutritionist to ensure that your pet is getting the nutrients they need. 

Bundle Up & Wipe Down

No matter what the temperature is, windchill can threaten a pet's life. Exposed skin on noses, ears and paw pads is at risk for frostbite and hypothermia during extreme cold snaps. For this reason, small, short-haired and closely clipped dogs often feel more comfortable wearing a coat or sweater - even during short walks. Remember to remove the coat or sweater while your dog inside to prevent overheating.

Rock salt and other chemicals used to melt ice and snow can irritate or injure your pet's feet. Wipe all paws with a damp towel after walks, before they lick them, which may irritate their mouth.

Dogs are at a particular risk of salt poisoning due to the rock salt used on many area roads. Store your personal snow/ice melting salts in a safe place. If your dog ingests rock salt, contact a veterinarian immediately. 

Another potential risk on paws is antifreeze. Antifreeze is a deadly poison. It has a sweet taste that often attracts animals, especially those looking for hydration during snow and ice conditions. If your pet has walked through a spill, it is important to wash their feet as soon as possible. If ingestion has occurred, immediately transport them to the nearest vet! 
If you keep antifreeze at home make certain that pets and other animals cannot access it. Also, consider switching your use to coolants and antifreeze made with propylene glycol which are less poisonous to pets and wildlife.

When taking my dogs on snow or ice conditions, I use dog boots. Not only do the boots protect their feet from ice cuts or snow accumulation, they also provide a barrier between their paws and harmful de-icing chemicals.
(I've linked a favorite brand below and they are extending a special discount for you!)

Taking a few simple precautions will help you and your pets to enjoy outdoor winter exercise and fun. 

From boots and coats to collars and leads, 

check out www.fidogear.com for a great selection of quality, custom dog gear. 

(psst - enter coupon code WagsSwag for 15% off orders over $25)

click on this link and have the discount auto-applied to your cart
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Prevent and Treat Insect Bites with Homeopathy

A weak immune system is not limited to the rescued or malnourished animal. Pets are often exposed to toxins, drugs and chemicals that can weaken the immune system. When the body is in a weakened state, insects and parasites can more easily move in.

If you wish to treat any insect or parasite problem in your dog, the immune system must be functioning in a healthy, strong manner. First on your list should be improving the overall nutrition of your pet. Natural diets that are low in carbohydrates are a good option because grains and starches convert immediately to glucose, creating an environment that both internal and external parasites love.

The homeopathic medicine perspective helps owners address both the prevention and treatment of insect bites. Specific homeopathic remedies can reduce swelling, redness and itching and speed healing and others improve and support the immune system. For me, there is relief and satisfaction knowing that by addressing parasite issues with homeopathy, I reduce the toxic load on my pet's immune system, liver and excretory organs.
The same remedies that teat bites can be used to prevent them by reducing the animal's susceptibility to them. This is called, homeoprophylaxis - giving a nontoxic dose of the medicine that treats a specific ailment before exposure in order to prevent the ailment. This practice has over a 200 year history of use and recently has been studied and verified by HL Trexler.

Homeopathic remedies like Staphysagria, Ledum palustre, Grindelia, Cedron and Urtica urens are used in cases of mites, fleas, lice, mange, midges, black flies, horse flies, deer flies, chiggers, bees, wasps and spiders.

Here are brief explanations of each I mentioned to help you decide which will best help your pet's condition. * Please remember, when in doubt or in case of an emergency, contact your vet or one familiar with the use of homeopathic medicines.*

Cedron 
Indicated for use when snake bites or insect stings occur and there is trembling and numbness of the whole body. Good to administer if your pet has been subjected to multiple mosquito bites.

Grindelia robusta
Use for bites from fleas that cause itching and burning, for cases of poison oak, and in the treatment of ulcers with swollen, purplish skin

Ledum palustre
Due to its anti-tentanus properties, administer in cases of puncture wounds from objects or insects that show long-lasting discoloration afterwards. Also use for swelling, itching, inflammation, red spots and rash such as in poison ivy exposure.

Staphysagria
Indicated for inflammation that is the result of an insect bite. The area may be difficult to heal and what you observe can range from redness and swelling to ulcers with green or yellow pus, hives, or scabby sores that ooze water.

Urtica urens
Effective remedy for itchy, raised, red blotches such in the cases of nettle rash (especially if reaction worsens each year), elevated hives, prickly heat when intense burning and itching is present.

You can try any of the signal remedies above or a ready made blended product (frequently found at select health food stores, natural pet supply stores and online). Homeopathy is known to be both safe and effective. It is safe because the homeopathic medicine is inherently nontoxic due to the unique dilution process of the substance from which it is made. They are odorless and do not interact with medications or other preventative measures.

Spring Safety Reminder

As the days grow longer and you spend more and more time outside with your pets, please remember that the following plants are dangerous to our dear pawed companions. If you suspect your pet has ingested any of these plants, please contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Crocus - ingestion of the plant and bulb may cause gastrointestinal upset including diarrhea and vomiting

Daffodil - ingestion of the flower, plant or bulb can cause severe vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, cardiac arrhythmias and /or respiratory decline.

Hyacinth (and Tulips) - the toxic alkaloids of these plants are most concentrated in the bulbs, however, chewing the plant or flower can lead to tissue irritation to the mouth and esophagus. You may notice profuse drooling, vomiting, and (depending upon amount ingested) even diarrhea.

Lilies!!! - A few varieties such as Peace, Peruvian and Calla may cause mouth and tissue irritation, but are not usually fatal.  However, Tiger, Day, Asiatic, Easter and Japanese Show lilies are highly toxic and potentially fatal to cats! Even the ingestion of just two or three leave can be enough to put a cat into severe kidney failure.

Lily of the Valley - The cardiac glycosides in this plant, if ingested, may cause vomiting, diarrhea, a drop in heart rate and cardiac arrhythmias.

24/7 Animal Poison Control Center

855-764-7661

Winter Comfort for Equines

To maximize the benefits of winter turnout and keep your horse safe and healthy, you will need to provide additional resources than you would the rest of the year and be proactive in protecting against seasonal hazards. Your efforts will be rewarded by your horse's good health and contentment during the winter months.

1. Feed lots of forage

One of a horse's primary mechanisms for dealing with cold weather is to stoke up his internal furnace. In cold weather, the hypothalamus, buried deep within the brain, signals the adrenal glands to increase metabolism. As a result glycogen, fats, carbohydrates and protein are broken down more quickly and these chemical reactions generate heat deep within a horse's core, warming him from the inside out.

The best and safest fuel for this furnace is hay. Roughage takes longer to beak down, providing more sustained heat. Thus, when temperatures drop, offer your horse an extra flake or two of hay. Resist the temptation to increase your horse's grain ration as this could lead to colic and laminitis triggered by carbohydrate overload.

Ideally a horse at pasture, during winter, will have hay available at all times. If feeding off the ground is not practical using a hay-bag or box feeder is a good alternative. If you are unable to provide free-choice hay, make sure your horse never goes for more than four hours without access to forage, even if it means venturing down to the paddock just before bedtime to give him a few more flakes.


  

2. Provide shelter

Horses do not need to be indoors during winter, but they do require protection from the elements, specifically wind and precipitation that undermine the insulation of their winter coats.

Shelters can be simple: In milder climates, a single wall or stand of evergreen trees might be all horses need to block prevailing winds. If winds and variable, a three-section windbreak with walls arranged around a center post (like wheel spokes) allows horses to choose which section offers the most protection.

If rain or sleet is the winter norm in your area, provide a shelter with a roof as well. The best protection is a simple, three-sided shed topped with a roof that directs water away from the entrance. Ideally, the structure should be located on ground that drains well with its back wall facing the prevailing wind.

If heavy snows are common in your area, make sure your shed is strong enough to withstand an accumulation. A steeply pitched roof, sloping away from the shed entrance, can help snow slide off before is becomes too weighty.

3. Blanket mindfully

Equine outerwear can serve an important role in keeping horses warm and dry while turned out. Look for a waterproof blanket that protects the horse against average winter temperatures without causing him to become overheated. A horse sweating under a blanket in winter can catch a dangerous chill. With the large variety in blanket materials and styles available, it shouldn't be too difficult to match the best blanket to a particular horse and its environment.

The use of turnout blankets does require frequent monitoring on your part. You will need to check your horse daily to ensure the blanket is in good condition (tears or dangling straps can catch on a hoof or leg and cause injury), look closely under the blanket for signs of irritation, pressure sores, rainrot and even lice.

 

4. Minimize mud where you can

In areas where the ground does not stay frozen for long periods, winter means mud, mud and more mud. Mud can cause muscle and ligament strains and even pull off shoes - not by sucking them off, but by forcing horses to overstep onto their own heels.

Of course, it is best to prevent mud from forming in the first place. This means limiting the number of horses on each pasture, cultivation a good growth of grass during warmer months and properly grading areas where horses congregate such as around gates, water troughs and their shelter.

The ideal, of course, is often unattainable, but you can minimize mud that has already taken hold by adding porous material to the soil and facilitating drainage. For example, spreading "crusher run" gravel in low-lying muddy spots will firm up the footing and raise the area to reduce the amount of water that collects. Avoid spreading wood chips or mulch on muddy areas because these materials will break down and make the quagmire deeper.

5. Look out for ice

Although mud is annoying, ice can be deadly. A slip on ice can injure tendons or even break bones. Bare hooves offer little traction on a hard, slick surface and hoseshoes only make it worse, unless they are outfitted with ice studs or borium.

The easiest defense against large patches of ice is to keep water from pooling in your pasture. By using drains, grading and gravel, you can keep water from pooling. This, though, has to be done before freezing temperatures arrive. * Be aware that it is illegal to drain wetlands (generally defined as any area saturated long enough to sustain wetland vegetation). If you are unsure of the status of you boggy area, contact your local department of natural resources.

If you find yourself with a large frozen puddle in the pasture, assess how dangerous it is. Usually horses will avoid frozen patches when they can, however, if the ice patch is blocking their access to food, water and/or shelter, you MUST take action - either move the resources to a different area or fence off the ice. It is a good idea to keep bags of non-clumping cat litter on hand to keep your path to the barn and pasture gates safer. Should a horse wander onto an icy area you can give them traction by spreading the cat litter around them and creating a path to safety.

When sleet or freezing rain cover an entire paddock with ice, horses who are already out will typically stay safely inside a run-in shelter until footing is safe, provided they have food and water. To get there resources to them, you will need footwear that provides traction and a sled or makeshift skid that allows you to pull your load behind you. If there are horses in a barn during an ice storm, hold off turnout until the conditions improve. Look for other ways to keep the horses moving such as turning them loose in an indoor arena or walking them up and down the barn aisle.

6. Keep the water flowing

Reduced water consumption in winter can significantly increase a horse's colic risk. Keeping fresh, clean water available when horses are turned out in freezing (and below) temperatures can be a challenge. 

Automatic pasture waterers designed to keep water flowing are a great solution and require your watchful eye to ensure they are operating properly. To keep water drinkable in traditional tanks, you will need water heaters, installed and turned on before the temperature drops. Should you forget to set up your tank heater ahead of time and the water freezes solid, you will have extra work to do to ensure your horse has water to drink. Even if the horses come in at night to heated water buckets, they must have water available during turnout time.

Be sure to encourage your horse to drink. Studies show that equine water intake drops in colder weather and when the water itself is extremely cold. Monitor the water level in your trough to see whether your horse is drinking. Some automatic waterers have meters that enable you to check consumption. In addition, you can check your horse's for dehydration with a skin-pinch or capillary refill test.

If you think your horse is not drinking enough, you might trigger his thirst by adding electrolytes to his feed. Another way of increasing a horse's fluid intake is feeding warm, wet mashes of beet pulp, oatmeal and bran. 

** follow the link to a previous post by WAGS Organics regarding equine hydration**

Hydration and Your Horse

7. Protect their eyes

Although insects are long gone, your horse's fly mask can still be useful this winter. Gusting winds an pick up fine dirt and debris and carry it directly into your horse's eyes. Conjunctivitis, inflammation of the sensitive membranes around the eyes, is common where conditions are very dry and windy.

Any horse with a history of eye irritation should be turned out with a flay mask if windy weather is predicted. Masks also benefit horses with uveitis or cataracts who may find the "snow glare" annoying or painful. In these cases, a dark fly mask or one with very fine mesh can serve the same purpose that sunglasses do for skiers.

8. Shoe wisely

Wet snow can quickly accumulate between the branches of a horseshoe, melt slightly with the horse's body heat and then refreeze. The resulting trapped ice can strain tendons or cause a horse to fall. A thick layer of petroleum jelly can prevent snow and ice balls from forming, a better and longer-term solution are snowball pads that pop out accumulated snow with each step.

Always check with your farrier for the most effective options for your horse given its specific hoof health and winter living environment.

Now that you are cozy and warm in the house, the last thing you might want to do is pull your boots back on and head down to the pasture to make sure the water trough hasn't frozen over. No one will fault you for grumbling under your breath, but your efforts to preserve your horse's turnout time this winter can be repaid when you are able to look out the window to see a happy, healthy horse frolicking in fresh snow - and knowing that they wouldn't have it any other way.

The opinions, suggestions and advice shared within this blog are based upon the writer's experience. 

You are encouraged to consult your veterinarian and  other animal health professionals to determine the most appropriate line of action for your specific needs.

Prevent and Treat Laminitis Naturally

An important aspect of horse guardianship, and barn management, is being as pro-active as possible in regards to the prevention of laminitis. Laminitis (aka, founder) is inflammation of the laminae, or tissue layers, of the hoof. Although the causes of founder are varied, they all trigger a disturbance that disrupts the normal blood flow to and from the hoof. Lack of proper blood flow causes a lack of oxygen to the laminae, which become damaged and die, leading to further hoof tissue damage and deterioration.

Some causes of laminitis include:

Hormonal changes, particularly during a mare’s estrous cycle

Long term use of drugs, chemicals and toxins

Bacterial or viral infections, prolonged illness, colic and severe stress

Sudden change to lush grass or legumes such as alfalfa

Carbohydrate overload from eating too much grain

Bruised hooves from impact on hard surfaces

In order to help domesticated horses avoid the pain of laminitis, we must be careful and mindful of what the horse eats. Feed whole, clean grains that are stored safely; avoid feeding sweetened and processed grains. We should work our horses sensibly, support their health by building up their immune systems, avoiding the use of chemicals, indiscriminate drug use and only vaccinating when necessary (consider titers testing when appropriate). Remember, we must

GRADUALLY introduce our horses to pasture, particularly during spring and fall.

While pasture grazing is a horse’s natural food source, it can cause problems if it isn’t digested efficiently. There are certain times of the year when grasses have high levels of sugars that can be harmful to a horse’s system if it isn’t accustomed to them. Warm clear days and cool nights are the ideal conditions for the buildup of sugars, especially after rain when growing conditions are optimal. Starches and sugars are not completely digested before they reach the bowel. These undigested starches and sugars ferment much faster than hay fiber and can lead to an abundance of bacteria and acid. This excess acid in the gut is the very first step in the development of laminitis. How founder develops from this point is very complicated, but basically, the greater the amount of starch and sugar fermentation, the greater the buildup of acids and the greater the of founder. The process depends upon how much the horse eats, how quickly it eats, and how efficiently the horse digests what it eats before the fermentation process begins. (Please note, a horse’s digestive system and process is unique to the individual. Not all horses in one barn will necessarily digest food the same way).

Through my experience, I have come to immediately use the following homeopathics when I first suspect an onset of laminitis.

Aconite 30c – dose every 20 minutes up to 6 times

Belladonna 30c – follow the dosing of Aconite with this – hourly for 4 doses, then, as long as the horse is responding, dose 3 times a day for 4 days.

For dealing with laminitis flare-ups I use:

Nux vomica 6c – dose 2 times a day for 5-7 days until improvement noticed

(This remedy is particularly effective for the horse that appears fidgety and irritable as the condition arises.

If your horse’s condition shows slight improvement as it begins to warm and move use, Rhus Toxicodendron 6c , 2-3 times a day until noticeable improvement (This may take 3-8 weeks).

In the case of chronic laminitis to assist with regeneration of damaged tissue inside of the hoof, I like to use, Calcarea Fluorica 30c, dose morning and evening 2 days a week for 4-6 weeks.

There are several beneficial herbs that, when used appropriately, will have positive influence on the prevention and treatment of founder and its various effects. Some of these, when combined with other herbs, have increased action on the condition. Yes, many conventional drugs are derived from herbs but these drugs contain a concentration of active ingredients to address the symptoms. Because the herbs remain whole and complete in their composition, the properties maintain their natural balance and work together thus addressing underlying causes and treating the horse as a whole.

In the case of founder, herbs can be used to cleanse the body, aid digestion, lower discomfort, restore balance to the horse’s system and promote healthy tissue growth.

For the prevention of laminitis and especially for horses with recurring founder:

Burdock Root – stimulates digestion and cleanses the blood

Chamomile – is an anti-inflammatory, improves circulation and aids digestion

Horehound – aids digestion

To aid the body in flushing out toxins that may build up and lead to laminitis:

Blessed thistle – helps treat liver problems and aids circulation

Cleavers – high in silica, a mineral that helps ensure strong hooves, it is also an effective lymphatic cleanser

Comfrey – full of nutrients, helps soothe inflamed tissue, promotes fast healing – especially of bone and connective tissue

Dandelion root and leaf – mineral rich and helps to clear the body of waste matter and toxins

Milk thistle seed or powder -  Should be considered for the horse that has been on heavy drug therapies or steady use of pain relievers. It is a very effective liver cleanser; if the liver is not working properly the body cannot expel toxins from the system.

Nettle (dried leaves) – stimulates circulation, is a blood cleanser and overall body system conditioner; they are very nutritious

Horses that have foundered commonly develop infections and abscesses in their feet. Goldenseal , though pricey, works well for deep-seated infections. A blend of garlic and hawthorn is a more economical and very effective treatment.

Adding pain relieving herbs such as devil’s claw and white willow is helpful and may allow you to forego the use of butazolidin. Devil’s claw is an effective anti-inflammatory and pain reliever. White willow bark is a pain reliever and anti-inflammatory that is useful in cases of laminitis and navicular syndrome. Celery seed and stalk will improve appetite and has anti-inflammatory benefits.

The use of an herbal hoof pack may help with infections and abscesses in founder cases. One can be created by combining comfrey leaf, plantain leaf, powdered marshmallow root, and a drop of tea tree oil with warm water to make a paste-like consistency. Apply to the hoof sole and keep in place for 48 hours to help draw out heat and infection.

Garlic, kelp and rose hips are herbs that hell strengthen the hoof and encourage healthy growth. Kelp is an excellent source of vitamins, minerals, and iodine. Rose hips improve hoof strength and condition because they contain bioflavonoids and are an excellent source of vitamin C. Any herbs that stimulate circulation to the hoof will improve the quality of growth.

I always recommend speaking with your veterinarian and farrier when you suspect founder. Treating the condition at an early stage greatly improves your horse’s prognosis and return to sound health. The information shared here is intended as informational supportive education. The more we know, the better we are able to provide effective,safe care for our horses.

Homeopathic Remedies for the Equine Digestive Tract

The digestive tract is critical to a horse's well-being anf is regulated by a number of factors in the horse's life. Because most of us are unable to provide the benefits of  natural, wild, herd-based, free range feeding lifestyle for our horse we are left doing the best we can with the grasses, feeds, interactions and exercise we have available.

Nature designed the horse (and its digestive system) to function optimally as part of a herd, walking 15 hours (or more) a day, and grazing on a variety of roughage during that time. Unfortunately, and often due to urban constraints, horse life consists of confinement many hours a day, lack of social interaction and structure, little or limited exercise and processed feeds. Digestive symptoms that may occur from this lifestyle include poor eating habits, ulcers, abnormal stool (too wet or too dry) and colic. Homeopathy offers relief of symptoms for many of these conditions.

Before thinking about a homeopathic remedy, you need to asses your horse's lifestyle. How natural is it? How much stress is your horse under? What symptoms tell you that your horse is stressed? Do you notice pacing, chewing, anxious behavior, herd bound tendencies, poor appetite, or poor coat condition? Does your horse turn its emotions inward and hide them? What emotional state do you feel your horse is in - happy, content, worried, confused, depressed, aggressive, grumpy, willful, fearful, friendly - these are all words that can help define emotional and mental states that will help decide what homeopathic remedy to pick.

What is your horse's diet? A heavily grain-based diet (especially sweet feeds) will aggravate the gastrointestinal tract and will be an obstacle to effective remedy response. Excessive use of antibiotics will also prevent response to a remedy since the good bacteria in your horse's system has been killed. Prolonged and continued stress conditions will aggravate gastrointestinal issues such as ulcers. If the stress (extended confinement, showing every weekend, irregular feed times, minimal turnout, etc) continues, the likelihood of curing your horse's ulcers with homeopathic remedies is very small. Under these circumstances, you would see better results from continual feeding of herbal supplements.

Generally, most equine digestive disorders are chronic in nature and benefit most from a full constitutional assessment by a homeopathic veterinarian who takes a complete case history then matches a specific remedy to the horse.

Following is a basic materia medica or symptoms (for two common equine digestive issues) that may fit different remedies. If you chose to try one, and it does not work, do not keep giving other remedies in hopes they will work, contact a professional for assistance..

COLIC

A great first aid kit for acute colic can be put together and kept in every barn. Homeopathic remedies in their original packages keep for several years, so you do not have to worry about them going bad. I would get all the remedies in a 30C potency and use 6-8 of the little tablets per dose. In a colic situation, the first thing to do is to take 4 drops of Rescue Remedy, then give 10-12 drops to your horse. Rescue remedy calms both of you. Next call your veterinarian. If your treatment makes the horse better by the time the vet arrives, it will be good have your horse checked anyway.

* Nux Vomica is the classic remedy to use in a colic situation for many different types of colic, from overeating grain or grass to an impaction. It is powerful, but will not cover up serious signs that your veterinarian may need to see. You can give one dose every 15 minutes for an hour. If there are no results, the remedy is not correct or the case is more serious than it seems.

* Colocynthis is a remedy more for a gassy colic, where you can hear loud gut sounds, often without a stethoscope. Your horse may pass gas, or it may be trapped and can be quite painful. The same four doses as mentioned above can be given.

* Aconite is always useful for a colic with a sudden onset, especially if there is cold or windy weather blowing in.

Along with the remedies, I recommend that a high quality probiotic be given. A liquid fermented product is often easier to give and has a better shelf life than powdered versions (ex: ProBi –Advanced Biological Concepts). In an emergency, any probiotic will help, even 6-12 human probiotic capsules can be given.

ULCERS

The horse’s personality plays a very important role in selecting remedies for ulcers. Since this is a chronic condition, a single dose of the remedy is given, or two doses on one day. Then you need to wait about 2-3 weeks for the remedy to take effect. Sometimes the result is slow to happen, but gradually you see your horse happier and more comfortable. Before you decide the remedy is not working, really think about any changes you have seen and keep a notebook with a daily journal.

* Nux Vomica is useful for horses who have a “Type A” personality, like to work and tend to have a bit of a temper. When these horses are hurting, they get very unpleasant. It is also very good for horses who have had a lot of drugs, and many of he horses off the racetrack.

* Arsenicum Alb is a remedy that fits horses with more fear in their personality, also those that are finicky about their stalls, like things neat and orderly. They may tend towards loose stool.

* Phosphorus horses tend to be friendly, happy horses, but can be sensitive to noises and a bit fearful.

* Lycopodium horses may get stressed easily, have a bit of diarrhea, gas or watery stool when stressed or anticipating stress.